b'THE HULKING MANRunning for 175 miles from `Upolu Point near Hawi,IPetroglyphs continued to be made had long been fascinated by a complex tragedy that took placefor a short time after the missionaries in Hawai`i in 1790. In retaliationbegan to teach Hawaiians to read and through Kona, past South Point, and all the way to thefor atrocities committed against thewrite. At `Anaeho`omalu, along the eastern border of Hawai`i Volcanoes National Park, AlaHawaiians by a visiting sea captain, aancient path known as the Kings Trail, Kahakai National Historic Trail was officially formed inchief on the Big Island vowed to takewas written the word Kamauoha, and 2000 for the purposes of preserving the sensitive ecosystems,revenge on the next foreign ship tonext to it was an earlier petroglyph cultural sites, and indigenous species found along its route.come along.of a man in an unusual, hulking pose. The trail in the area of the Kohala Coast beach resorts is partThis turned out to be a schoonerKwiatkowski remembered once meet-of the first 75 miles to have been preserved under the newnamed the Fair American ing a family by that name and began to . When it Historic Trail system, and makes for a fascinating day hikeanchored in a cove about a mile southsearch them out. . bring water, as it gets hot out there!of `Anaeho`omalu Baythe chiefI ended up talking to the In addition to being the pathway of the ali`i, the orig- and his men set out to kill the entiregreat-great-granddaughter of the man inal trail was an important transportation corridor forcrew. This they did, except for onein the petroglyph. His name, indeed, theearlyHawaiianpeople.Althoughcanoeswerethewho escaped. (The survivor, Isaacwas Kamauoha, and he was a wrestling principal means of travel, the trail allowed for overlandDavis, later became a trusted adviser topartner of KamehamehaAnd you transportation of food, water, building materials, and otherKamehameha the Great.)know, Kamauohas sons and grandsons necessities. Fed by connecting trails, it also facilitated tradeThe unmanned Fair American were wrestlers, too, all the way up tobetween the shoreline fishing villages and the upland farm- continued to lay at anchor for weeks,the 20th century. ing villages. since no one possessed the mana And that explains the unusual , or Though many of the old trails have been lost to erosionsupernatural power, to make it go. Skipicture, Kwiatkowski said. Look! and changing land use, with the establishment of the AlaKwiatkowski, author and petroglyphHe hopped up on the rock above the Kahakai National Historic Trail, the remaining portionsscholar, said that during that time thepetroglyph and was duplicating the of the main coastline trail will be preserved and protectedHawaiians managed to make more thanhulking position in real life, hunching for future generations.a dozen detailed images of the vesselforward and spreading his arms and So while it may seem like youve landed on the moonon a nearby petroglyph field, probablylegs apart in the same manner as the when you first arrive, you haventjust one of the mostin an attempt to summon the necessarycrude drawing.unique and fascinating corners of paradise. spiritual powers.Travel writer Robert W. Bone5 8'