b'JAYSON KANEKOALiving Close to TaroT o reach Waipi`o Valley, you must walk or drive a four-wheel-drive vehicle down a steep incline off Highway 240. The reward at the end of this road, 900 feet down, is an oasis adorned with waterfalls and bordered by verdant 2,000-foot mountain walls and a mile-long scimitar of black sand. Fittingly, Waipi`o means curved water.In ancient times, this peaceful valley was a meeting place, home, (royalty). Kamehameha and burial site for many of Hawai`i islands ali`i the Great was taken to Waipi`o as an infant and raised there until he was five. Many say the mana (spirit) of those leaders and the thousands of Hawaiians who once cultivated taro, bananas, and coconuts in the valley still can be felt. He and his immediate family now farm about 30 acres of taro Both sides of Jayson Kanekoas family have long histories farmingin Waipi`o primarily for their personal use. They consider it a great taro in Waipi`o. Ah Kun Mock Chew, my maternal great-great grand- responsibility.father, came to Hawai`i Island from China in 1892, met a HawaiianTo farm taro in this sacred place, you must have a strong connection woman, and married her, says the executive chef of the Waikoloato it, Kanekoa says. You must understand how the water flows from the Beach Marriott Resort & Spa. He was a savvy businessman whomountains to the sea and how deepthe exact inchestaro should . Those arent things you can Google or learn from pursued many ventures. He eventually made his way to Waipi`o, wherebe planted in the lo`ihe lived and farmed taro with his wife and eight children. a book; they were passed down in farming families from generation At one point, Kanekoa says, Ah Kun owned and leased nearly oneto generation. The great responsibility comes in actively practicing third of the valley and farmed dozens of lo`i traditional farming methods and ensuring that the knowledge is shared(irrigated terraces). Many other farmers were growing taro in Waipi`o at the time, but most ofwith the younger ones, so it can be preserved and perpetuated.them sold their harvests to poi-manufacturing factories in Hilo. Ah KunPoi was the first food that Kanekoas three children ate when they decided to start a poi-making business close to his taro patches, whichwere babies, and to this day theres always poi at his house and on the operated from 1915 to 1947 (the old building still stands). He sold andWaikoloa Beach Marriotts Sunset L`au. Poi is often found on the dinner traded his poi throughout the island; Parker Ranch regularly gave himbuffet at the hotels Hawaii Calls restaurant, and specials offered there(taro pudding) cheesecake and a modern beef in exchange for poi. on occasion include kloloWhen Kanekoa was growing up, his family lived in Kukuihaele abovetake on squid l`au that consists of taro leaf risotto and deep-fried squid. Waipi`o. He and his three siblings looked forward to the weekendsIn addition, his staff recently added taro to the restaurants garden, so because that was when they would go to the valley to work in the lo`i guests can see what it looks like. with their grandparents, Samuel and Hazel Mock Chew.I love talking about taro and teaching people about taro, Kanekoa We didnt have tractors or heavy machinery back then, so every- says. My familys history is rooted in taro, in Waipi`o Valley. For five thing was done with horses or manpower, Kanekoa says. I remembergenerations, we have put blood, sweat, and tears into cultivating the land carrying 100- to 150-pound bags of taro that were just as heavy as Iand keeping that precious part of Hawaiian culture alive. Waipi`o is my was! It was backbreaking work, but once we were done for the day,anchor, my foundation. Wherever I go in life, I know I can return to the there was a tremendous feeling of accomplishment. valley and be reminded of where I came from and who I am.8 3'